Memory is an Unreliable Witness

Memory is an Unreliable Witness

I recently met up with Xander Berkeley, a Hollywood actor who played in one of the greatest thrillers of all time – Terminator 2 – which was made in 1991. He has featured in over 200 films and TV shows since then and is currently working on the Walking Dead, one of Hollywood’s most successful exports.

Talk ranged far and wide and we talked of the time he visited us in Scotland, over 30 years ago, when my three brothers and I were in the midst of our teenage rebellions.

“Remember when we drove across Ireland,” said Xander, who then described a series of incidents that took place on the Emerald Isle – none of which I remembered. I had my own set of memories of that trip, perfectly preserved, like an insect in amber – none of which Xander remembered.

Memory is like a telescope. You look through it at a faraway point and see some interesting detail. When we look through a telescope we know we’re only seeing a microcosm, but when we look back at memories we think (at least I do) that we are seeing the whole picture. This helps me realise that I shouldn’t rely on memory too much.

Sometime later Xander sent me a stark photograph of himself at the Callanish Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis, the most north westerly part of the (soon-to-be-defunct) United Kingdom. Here it is:

By Kim Wolfe Murray

Xander Berkeley by Kim Wolfe Murray

 

All Xander said about this photo was that it had been taken by Kim, my elder brother, with whom he had travelled to Callanish back in the eighties. The third man on the trip was a school friend of my brother’s called Angus Farquhar, who now runs highly original events with his company NVA: “powerful public art that reaffirms people’s connection to the built and natural heritage” says his website.

My brother Kim went on to do great things too: not long after this Callanish experience he joined a group of Buddhists and became one of the first Buddhist monks in the UK. He stuck at this for over 12 years. Now he lives in Edinburgh where he does renovation work.

I knew that Callanish was a mythical place, location of a prehistoric stone circle that is said to be more impressive than Stonehenge. The fact that I have never been to the Callanish standing stones, and have always wanted to go there, made their journey seem all the more mysterious.

I then had an idea: ask each of the three travellers to send me their impressions of that journey and then edit it all together into an article. I thought they wouldn’t reply as they are all very busy but, to my surprise, they all did.

This is what they said:

Xander Berkeley on Callanish Standing Stones:

Lewis: a carved hulk of rock beaten by a billion crashing waves; held fast on the outermost point of Europe.

My recollections of that journey revolve around the striking circle of towering stones stabbed deep into the earth. The bleak landscape was barren of branch or flower, stone or structure, but for these tall shapes standing like robed druids in a circle.

The glacial jig-jagged cut-out of a landscape

Jet black against the moonlit overcast sky

Random pies of white scattered lochs

Reflecting moonlight

Bright in their sea of otherwise utter blackness.

We gathered all the dry brush we could find and brought it down to the sea. We imagined Vikings mooring ships in the very spot where we lit a bonfire.  We danced around it like mad Rip Van Winkles singing a Leadbelly song.

*

Angus Farquhar’s Version

Mine are hazier recollections. Drugs and drink remove sections, while bringing certain visual images into startling clarity, and strong sense memories of place and texture.

Cold, wet beaches, gales of laughter with Kim as we convinced Xander that the limpet was a Scottish delicacy. We manically dislodged one from a rock. I’m pretty sure he ate it, and survived to tell the tale.

The strongest memory is taking some form of stimulant. I was never quite sure what it was. But we took it early one morning before going to the Callanish rock circle.

We stayed together and spent time on our own. At first I had spasms in my stomach and then slowly acclimatised to the place. I stood for what felt like hours with my face pressed against a standing stone. It was very quiet.

Time was rippling.

*

Kim Wolfe Murray’s play on Callanish:

Scene 1

Somewhere in a remote island croft three travellers face each other in the pre-dawn light. Stumbling around in the semi-dark of the hovel, coffee is shared and the group stagger out into the bleak heather landscape.

No words are spoken.

There is a plan.

Xander, the eldest, steps out in a dark greatcoat with a Russian fur hat.

He footles around in his pockets, produces a small tin and distributes tiny white pills.

Xander: Take these. I’ve kept them for this moment. They’re an experimental batch….first of its kind.

Angus & Kim are wearing tightly fitting combat gear. Their hair shaved at the sides, military style. Polish caps set off at an angle disguising their pubescent faces and lack of stubble.

They swallow the pills without question.

Scene 2

The three are driving in a small car around twisted roads through the unremittingly bare island.

Angus is at the wheel as they hurtle through low hills. The light outside is still dim. A fine mist seems to envelop them. The car is small. They are heading to the North West of the island. There is only one road and no signposts.

Scene 3

As they close in on their destination the terrain seems to flatten out and stretch into the far distance. The beginning of the sea and the end of the land is indistinguishable. The cloud cover is still complete in the grey dawn light. A lime-washed croft with a peat roof appears in the distance. Beyond the croft are primeval standing stones. So many of them placed in concentric circles.

The group emerge out of the car and skirt around the croft. Their pace is slowed. No one speaks.

Kim is listening to Einsturzende Neubauten on a Walkman as the first waves of pill induced euphoria sweeps over him.

Angus is prowling around the standing stones, his sharply angled features in silhouette against the flat seascape beyond.

Xander is standing astride a neolithic pit. A great stone towers over him, shadowing his frame.

The ancient runes seem to murmur their assent.

Daylight reveals the vast ocean horizon beyond where the stones have stood for thousands of years.

Scene 4

The group travel back the way they came.

The purple tints of the rolling heather hills seem brighter. The pale glint of the sun reflecting off the flat sea is lighter.

For a time they will bask in the afterglow….

The End

Photo of Xander Berkeley on the set of the film Straight to Hell (1986) directed by Alex Cox (“A gang of bank robbers with a suitcase full of money go to the desert to hide out.”)

5 Ways to Get Good Deals Abroad

5 Ways to Get Good Deals Abroad

Intro by Rupert Wolfe Murray.

One of the purposes of this blog is to encourage people to travel and to write.

I’d like to encourage people to write for this blog. I’m always looking for personal stories about travelling, or writing, and in this instance I’d like to introduce you to a new guest writer by the name of Jordan Greene, a Brit who wants to share some travel advice. Travel (or writing) tips are great as they break down the mystique of travel and make it more approachable for all those folks out there who want to break out of their routines and hit the open road.

*

5 Ways to Get Good Deals Abroad, by Jordan Greene

Looking to save some money when you’re next on the road? It’s always satisfying to squeeze every penny out of your trip, but doing so isn’t always easy.

Here are five ways to get good deals while travelling:

Haggle

While you might cringe at the prospect of having to barter down a salesman in a foreign market, it can result in getting stuff for half price.

There are many useful articles which explain how to haggle down prices – including knowing when it is, and isn’t, appropriate.

Don’t worry if you’re unsure of your bartering skills. I wasn’t born with the gift of the gab, but after practicing at a few stalls in Asia I soon learnt how to get the price down.

In many parts of the world, for example India and the Middle East, haggling is a normal part of life. Shopkeepers and stall holders expect clients to haggle, and they often set their prices artificially high so they can drop them – and still make a profit

Look for discounts

A good way to look out for sales and discounts is simply to ask local people. Locals are often glad to help travellers with advice like this and their advice will often be more reliable than just searching for discounts by walking around. It can also save a ton of time.

Seeking out discounts saved me a lot of money on my travels. There are plenty of handy tools out with amazing savings options.

Travel in Low Season

If you want to make the most of some seriously reduced prices, it might be worthwhile to travel at a time of year when less people will be on holiday – the low season.

The prices of flights and accommodation will always be cheaper during these periods, but it does come at a cost – colder weather and less “touristy” events being hosted.

That said, I found that during my winter travels I was able to get a heap more done. No crowds meant no queues for me.

Avoid Tourist Traps

It stands to reason that tourism hotspots are going to be more expensive than other areas of a nation.

Business people know there’s going to be an influx of people and so they ramp up the prices. Most tourists don’t have the experience to check out cheaper options.

Why not avoid the tourist traps and eat at a place that’s been overlooked? Take my word for it, you’ll find lots of amazing places off the beaten track.

Be Frugal

Saving money on every little thing helped me massively when it came to affording those slightly costlier items on my travels.

If you feel like a restaurant costs a bit too much, don’t eat there. Just walk out. If an item is too expensive, don’t buy it. Walking out of a shop or restaurant feels embarrassing the first time, but you get used to it pretty quick and it’s quite satisfying.

You’ll be able to find a cheaper and equally good alternative nearby.

These are my five top tips for getting a good deal when abroad. Stick to them and you might even find yourself with some cash when you get home.

Jordan Green’s short Bio: I’m a backpacker and a self-taught cook. I’ve been to a few countries, mostly in Asia and Europe. I write articles as a part-time job. I have two lazy dogs: a pug called Bingo and a husky called Reese.

Photo credit: an image created by Google to celebrate Carmen Mirandas 108th birthday

 

Diary of my Scottish Book Tour

Diary of my Scottish Book Tour

Some rather ridiculous impressions from my recent bike/book tour in Scotland…in diary format. The photo above is of the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, taken in 1987 by my friend Uli Zimmerman.

20 October, Edinburgh

Today I will fly to Frankfurt, location of the world’s greatest book fair, with my publisher Jean Findlay of Scotland Street Press. I’m being brought along to hustle my book – 9 Months in Tibet – as I’ve proven to be a good hustler over the last three months. (more…)

How Aberdeen Helped me Live in Tibet

How Aberdeen Helped me Live in Tibet

I have just cycled to the Scottish city of Aberdeen. It’s sunny and I didn’t know it was such an attractive city.

Tomorrow at 2pm I will give a talk about my new memoir, 9 Months in Tibet, at a cool bookshop called Books and Beans. I will talk about how Aberdeen was instrumental in the process that led to my living and working in Tibet for almost a year. I will also mention the fact that I’ve just had the most amazing “haircut experience” ever, in a spa-like salon run by a couple of cool dudes who know about cycling, mountaineering and turning scruffs like me into presentable gents. (more…)

Liverpool’s Gobi Desert — Part 2

Liverpool’s Gobi Desert — Part 2

Imagine you’re a microscopic insect who has crawled through the hole in the middle of an old vinyl record. You look around, get your bearings but all you can see is a vast open space that stretches out to the horizon in all directions. There’s nothing in the foreground, apart from irregular grooves that all look the same, and as you start exploring you find yourself doing something you never normally do: watching the horizon. (more…)

Liverpool’s Gobi Desert — Part 1

Liverpool’s Gobi Desert — Part 1

Camping is a paradox. On the one hand it’s really simple — you sleep outside — but on the other hand it’s really complicated: before you set off you must check you have a suitable tent (is it waterproof? do you have the poles and pegs?); do you have the right sleeping bag and mat? What about cooking gear, food and water? How many clothes, books, torches and other stuff do I need? Where am I going? Can I pitch a tent there? How am I going to get there? Can I carry that heavy rucksack? And when you’re organising gear for other people it gets much, much more complicated — especially when one of them says “I don’t like camping”. (more…)